Three trips to Paris and you feel like it’s your prerogative to get your magnifying glass out and inspect every square centimeter of the pleasantly arresting landscape around you.
Autumn has officially begun. The early morning air is just the right amount of nippy, you don’t have to bundle up in layers of stifling clothing, everything has a light, golden aura around it and the footpaths are paved with red, yellow, fading green and rust colored leaves that crumble like paper bags when you step on them. But, all you really want to know, magnifying glass in hand, something nasty stuck down your throat, is if they are going to clean it all at night. “They have an annual plan for these things here,” my father tells me, patiently and sympathetically.
It’s not your fault. You aren’t an irritatingly fastidious ninety year old woman or a retired Army Colonel. None of that, really, truly, honestly, I promise you. You are just trying to blend in, as stealthily as possible, with the atmosphere.
At a metro station, on my way to a little, second-hand English bookstore in the city, I found myself walking, staunchly, in a direction opposite to my destination. The working class, the students, the intellectuals and the hobos all came out at six p.m in the evening rush, and took me, mercilessly, with them. I loved it. So what if I had to change two metros to get back to where I had to go and that I wasted half an hour on commuting? So what if I got only forty minutes to chat with the ancient woman at “Tea and Tattered Pages” and to pet the strangely oval shaped cat that stared at me intently while I flicked through the pages of Michael Chabon’s Pulitzer winning novel? The book was eight euroes, the toillete was filthy and the gramps showed no inclination of giving me the steaming hot cup of tea that the website had promised. I forgave them all. For a brief moment that day, I was a breathing, thinking, fundamental part of a cross-section of the most basic kind of Parisian society and that was enough to convince me that my evening had been cinematic.
When you are at ground-level, a word in the sentence, a line of a poem, it all looks pretty and sequential to you. You explore a little; go on a morning walk instead of your daily outing, and imperfections stick out like flies on a rotting banana on your sparkling clean dining table.
I’m all bent upon proving this theory of perspectives to myself and so I go to the terrace with my periodic drug and buddy, a bubbling cup of filter coffee and look down instead of staring wonderstruck at the stationary scenery right before my eyes. The first scene I chance upon is that of a smartly dressed kid, playing around in the park. His au-pair is tending to five other kids in the background while exchanging notes with an old grandpa who is pushing a little girl on the swing, her hair done up in the cutest-beads-ever. The park is crowded and possibly noisy, but it seems peaceful enough. After a while, the first kid starts chasing a pigeon around, his hands automatically forming the wings of an imaginary plane. One by one, all the kids in the park start running behind him, hands out, engines whirring, moving in a line behind the pigeon which is flying really low now, as if it were purely for the children’s benefit. And then of course, the pigeon flies away and all the kids are left behind, staring at it in absolute shock and despair. I can imagine that some of them might have broken into loud, irritating spells of crying, killing, as it may be, the heartbreakingly beautiful scene that I discovered, a thousand feet from the ground.
I suddenly see the world below clouded in an entirely different kind of light. The two men playing in the tennis court on my right make a series of double faults. On a path lined with full-fledged trees, shedding leaves as I watch, a car screeches to a halt and an old lady gestures rudely at the driver. In the gigantic cemetery on my left, ugly, mean looking, green trucks, clear up space for new graves.
Funnily enough, I find myself comforted, perhaps even a little humbled. I feel like we constantly give in to the insatiable urge to remind ourselves, that the world we live in might not be allowed re-takes or soundtracks, that at times we have to stop and look tirelessly for flaws, even if it was simply to tell ourselves that we live an ordinary life and when something goes out of plan or irrevocably wrong, we are prepared, even if it was by the slightest margin.
Two days before leaving Bangalore, I had to go to Mumbai for a day to get my French visa. I had to wake up at three in the morning and take one of the earliest flights out of Bangalore. I was to be accompanied by my Dad’s colleague from work, Biju Uncle and his charming wife, Geo Aunty. The previous day, my friends and cousins had thrown me a surprise send-off party. It was perfect from the word go. Apparently, I’m the easiest person to surprise and my lovelies are an especially bright bunch with party-planning-tips pumping through the blood in their veins. In fact, I was having a perfect week. My pending departure on Sunday was unknowingly marking everything with a sort of wholesome finality, wrapping up my interactions with old friends and new, in a warm, affectionate cocoon, to be opened at leisure in a bench somewhere in Coventry. The airplane was flying through huge, fluffy clouds and I had only pleasant things to think about. Needless to say, I was in a really good mood and enjoyed my conversations with Aunty and Uncle thoroughly.
But of course, my first application at the consulate office had to be redone and resubmitted at a later time. The visa clearance which usually takes about half an hour, was taking us the whole day. Uncle and I soon found ourselves making allowances for all sorts of discrepancies, the planning forcing goodwill and contentment out of my brain like a living corkscrew with something against me. Finally, it looked like Uncle and Aunty would have to leave without me by the flight at six for which we were all booked. My ticket would be canceled, I would pick up my passport from another office at four and then take a later flight costing triple the price of the first one because it was a long weekend and everyone was flying out of Mumbai that evening. To top it all, there was a good likelihood that I would get the French visa only for three months and not for a year like my parents and me had planned which would mean that I couldn’t go to Paris from Warwick, on impulse.
Four p.m came and went, Uncle and Aunty bade me a fond farewell and handed me a cell phone for temporary use because my cell had died out on me some hours ago. I went to the passport office to find a queue that extended to two floors. I was frustrated and dejected and at that point, I didn’t really give a damn if I just had to stay in Bombay all my life, alone, miserable and most probably utterly broke.
Then a lady came out of the office and said, “Only French passports, please come this way.” It was dramatic. Apparently I was the only one in the entire queue who was going to France. I fought through the crowds, and was out in exactly three minutes, with my passport, stamped cheerily with a visa valid until September 2010. The grandpa operating the elevator must have noticed something in my face because he shook my hand, congratulated me and wished me all the best. I called up Biju Uncle who called up our travel agent and stopped her from canceling my air ticket. All this time, a Kingfisher official was on hold on another line, waiting to block a later ticket for me, costing 14 grand.
Before I knew it, the old, run down taxi I was in, was zipping away on the Bandra-Worli Sea Link.
There are times when you sit down with your friends and cousins, jobless, unperturbed, completely cheerful, but debating for at least forty five minutes whether to eat at Subway or at McDs. There are times when your kitchen lies moldy, damp and smells like old cheese but all your pleas to your loved ones about helping with the dishes go conveniently neglected. There are times when you feel like you have something urgent that needs to be done but the people around you couldn’t possible understand its significance and you are forced to postpone your task to a later date.
And then there are times, when you sit on the couch in your living room, surrounded by the people you love and admire and respect and they return all those emotions equally and wordlessly. There are times when your cousins and friends, some of who have never met before blend into each other’s company till all of you are laughing at the exact same thing, with the exact same intensity. In the next two days, there would even be times when I would walk into the kitchen to find a guy I met two weeks ago, scrubbing religiously at a saucepan layered with left-over food. And times when my friends would inform me casually, like it was the most normal thing in the world, that they would come with me to the airport to drop me off at 1 a.m.
This would be later but right now I was at the sea-link and the Arabian Sea smiled at me cheekily from both sides of the magnificent cable-stayed bridge, an ambulance siren cut through the air painfully, and the girl in a car next to mine, rolled down her windows to stare at me. My taxi driver adjusted his rear view mirror for the nth time as he tried to figure out why I was smiling so exhilaratingly but crying at the same time. And I told him, in the best way I could, that the extent of perfection that my life had reached that week, the extent that I knew it was going to reach by the end of that week, had finally sunk in.
At times, when you don’t stop to think about all the errors that can creep in into your unpredictable, asymmetrical life, things do go out of plan, of course they do, but you find that this is because people do things, spectacular, surprising, exciting things, out of character, out of their way, to make you feel overwhelmingly special.
Abhishek, Anirudh, Bhavana, Karthik, Manasa, Rohit, Shalu, Sharadha, Siddhu, Sudhru, Swetha, Vivek, take a bow, please, please ,please. A good, long, memorable one till everyone who’s reading this knows who you are and what you did.
What did they do, you ask, trusted reader?
Not much, I suppose, by practical, technical, ordinary standards. For all the goodbyes I received, I will probably go back home in a year. Right? But even if I do , even if I stay in touch with all these people forever and even if the world gives away, even if it comes to all that, the memory of my last week in Bangalore would still exist and make me reconsider if I asked stupid questions when something lovely and dazzling dangled in front of my eyes.